blackmagic_guides / lead_climbing

Lead Climbing

Process

Lead climbing is a type of climbing in which the climber attaches their rope to the wall as they move upward, placing protective devices along the way to safeguard against a fall. The climber is considered the "leader" and is responsible for choosing the route and placing the protective devices.

To lead climb, the climber will first need to have the appropriate equipment, including a climbing rope, harness, carabiners, quickdraws, and protective devices such as camming units or nuts. They will also need a belayer, who will remain on the ground and manage the rope as the climber moves upward.

Once the climber and belayer are ready to begin, the belayer will attach one end of the climbing rope to the climber's harness using a figure-eight knot. The other end of the rope will be attached to the belayer using a belay device like a Gri-Gri.

The climber will then begin the ascent, moving upward along the route they have chosen. As they climb, they will place protective devices along the way, attaching them to the rock using carabiners or quickdraws. They can also use bolts that are already drilled into the wall if available. These devices will act as points of protection in the event of a fall, catching the rope and preventing the climber from falling to the ground.

As the climber moves upward, the belayer will pay out the rope, allowing the climber to move freely while still providing some protection in case of a fall. The belayer will also be ready to catch the climber if they do fall, using a belay device to arrest the fall and prevent the climber from plummeting to the ground.

Once the climber reaches the top of the route, they will securely attach the rope to the anchor, and then lower themselves back down to the ground. If necessary, the climber can clean the route while rapelling down, by stopping at each quickdraw and removing it.

Overall, the process of lead climbing involves choosing a route, attaching the climbing rope to the climber's harness and the belayer's belay device, and moving upward while placing protective devices along the way. The belayer plays a crucial role in providing support and protection to the climber throughout the ascent.

Mistakes

Z-clipping is when the climber reaches from below the previous quickdraw and pulls up the rope from there, which is bad because it means that any future protection they clip into will have no effect when they fall. They'll be caught by the quickdraw they z-clipped into.

Backstepping, or allowing the rope to pass behind the climber's leg, can also be dangerous. If a climber were to fall while backstepping, the rope could catch their leg and flip them upside down, potentially causing a rope burn or other injury. It is important for climbers to avoid backstepping and ensure that the rope always passes in front of their leg to avoid this hazard.

Overall, z-clipping and backstepping are two pitfalls that climbers should avoid in order to stay safe and prevent accidents. By paying careful attention to the way they attach their rope to their gear and the position of their legs, climbers can reduce the risk of accidents and enjoy a successful and safe climbing experience.


Ask questions